Models descended an emergency escape staircase to reach the Francesca Liberatore runway at Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, a symbolic gesture urging the world to find a way out of the deepening human suffering across the globe.

Known for her artistic approach to fashion, Liberatore said the ongoing turmoil made her reluctant to present a lighthearted Spring-Summer 2026 collection. Instead, she staged her show as a reflection of global uncertainty, accompanied by Italian singer Elisa’s renditions of Tears for Fears’ classics “Everybody Wants to Rule the World” and “Mad World.”

Tailoring in turbulent times

Liberatore said she wanted to contribute to the global conversation through precise fashion codes and a clear design language. The outcome was youthful, wearable looks marked by refinement and subtle symbolism.

“Everyone living in their golden world needs to open their eyes. We need to stop and pay attention to this situation,” she told reporters backstage.

The show opened with sharply tailored white jackets in textured fabrics before transitioning into softer silhouettes — protective bodices flowing into long A-line skirts, relaxed tunics over skirts, and wide sundresses edged with brocade. Headphones designed in collaboration with Sony completed the looks, targeting a younger audience.

Floral tribute

In the finale, models carried black roses and placed them at the foot of the photographers’ podium, leaving the audience to interpret the gesture. Liberatore said it represented both her distress over ongoing wars and the fashion industry’s struggle to engage younger generations.

The roses also served as a tribute to the late Giorgio Armani, the designer who placed Milan on the global fashion map. Liberatore and Armani traditionally closed Milan Fashion Week, and on Sunday evening a gala show was set at the Brera Art Gallery to celebrate Armani’s 50-year career, held just weeks after his passing at the age of 91.