Chanel brought its itinerant off-season fashion show the "arts and crafts," with its swath of VIPs including Penelope Cruz and Marion Cotillard, back to home ground in Paris on Wednesday to mark its first collection since Karl Lagerfeld died earlier this year.
New designer Virginie Viard teamed up with film director Sofia Coppola this season to imagine a cinematic opus that saw the house's 1920s Rue Cambon atelier — replete with crystal chandeliers and mirrored cubist staircase — recreated under the lofty roof of the Grand Palais exhibition space.
Unlike the seasonal collections that trickle down to set high street trends, the "arts and crafts" pre-collection aims at showing off and celebrating the work of the artisans that are the beating heart of Chanel, and the Paris fashion industry as a whole. Celebrating their technical know-how is one way that storied Paris heritage houses have tried to distinguish themselves in the face of increased competition from other fashion capitals, such as New York and Milan.
The first looks, in black with oversized statement shoulders, were simple enough as to let the embellishments do the talking: Large silvery art-deco waist bands with beading, bejeweled cuff bands or large geometric buttons with silver rims. A staple black sweater and knee length skirt were given life with rings of pearls that cascaded down to a black and gold chain belt that resembled the strap of the house's iconic handbag. Camellias adorned ethereal feathers as prints, while ears of wheat were constructed in glimmering gold sequins.
They set the agenda of the show. The fashion panache here was hidden down in the details that were delivered with couture-like finesse.
"The show was incredible," exclaimed Cruz, who reminisced nostalgically about walking around Central Park at midnight with Lagerfeld last December after last year's Egypt-themed Chanel show in New York.
Since 2002, the "arts and crafts" show has traveled around the world to highlight the fashion artistry of Parisian embroiderers, feathermakers, adornment-makers, pleaters, shoemakers, milliners and glovemakers.
After shows in Hamburg, Edinburgh, New York and other far-flung locations, Chanel returned to the French capital where it may be the last chance in a long time to stage it at the Grand Palais, which is scheduled to close for renovations next year ahead of the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris.
This year's homecoming echoes the very first show, held in the salons at 31 Rue Cambon — Chanel's storied Paris atelier.
It was the late house founder Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel who first understood the need to support struggling artisans in the field in the 1950s, culminating in the creation of the body of crafts, Paraffection, in 1985.
This vast network, which employs some 5,000 workers and includes famed embroider Lesage, does not work only for Chanel but also multiple other big names in the fashion industry.
"There is something so generous about how Chanel has supported the Parisian fashion industry as a whole," Cotillard said following the show.
"Chanel is a sort of ambassador for France and Paris over the world and it makes me so proud," she added.
A drop down on the Celsius scale and the rustling of the falling leaves – safe to say that Autumn has arrived. For us Bangladeshis, it feels like a thousand summers have passed in the last few months. It’s finally time to bid our farewells to the chaotic summer months and welcome Autumn. The calm sweep of the seasons demands a change in our wardrobes, so let’s dive in and see how we can stay trendy this Fall!
Let’s talk colours. Looking beyond the classic fall shades of maroons and browns, there are a few additions this year that demand our attention. By now you have probably seen an outbreak of millennial purple on your Instagram feed and looks like it is here to stay for the cooler seasons this year. Fashionistas are adorning themselves in hues of lilac and lavender (yes, there is a difference) by incorporating these shades in their Fall outfits. Whether it’s a touch of lavender in your accessories or going all the way by sporting a full monochromatic lavender outfit – this colour is definitely one of the season’s favourites.
Moving onto the surprise guest appearance to the panel of fall favourite shades this year is *drumrolls* - neon! That’s right. Neon brights are no longer confined to scorching hot summers or monsoons. They have well paved their way into the colder months. You can go full out with a bright pink or neon green jacket, sweater or top or instead if you feel that it is too loud for your taste – you can fashion yourself a pair of neon shoes or earrings to keep it simpler yet fun.
L-R – House of Holland, Emporio Armani, Brandon Maxwell
Pistachio green has been spotted quite heavily on the fashion scene and we are here for it! The soft pale green shade has been making rounds on both the runways and streetstyle and it’s truly a treat to the eyes. You can mix up different shades of green like pistachio, olive or sage in your outfit. Take a pistachio top and pair it up with a sage green sweater or jacket or put on a pair of olive pants. Even mixing whites with hues of pistachio is great idea. The versatility of the colour makes it easy for us to get creative when picking our outfit!
L-R – Ryan Roche, Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander
These three colours have accompanied the plums, neutrals and burnt oranges this season to help us pick our fall outfit. Some of the major trends we have spotted for this fall are capes, asymmetric necklines, long-hemmed coats, the 80’s padded shoulders with its dramatic silhouettes and an unexpected upsurge of feathered apparel. Basically, we are drawing inspiration from a multitude of eras to fashion ourselves the perfect autumnal look. In terms of accessories, the tiny handbag trend is still going strong which is practically impossible to get any use out of. However, if you’re a fan of functionality like the average citizen then you can opt for a trusty crossbody or belt bag. Other accessory trends to try out this summer are statement earrings and oversized chain-link jewels which are constructed with both earrings and chokers packing force into any look you exhibit.
The temperature has calmed down but your style certainly does not have to! It’s the best season to try out an array of fascinating trends before committing to our winter essentials. So, let’s enjoy this season in all its glory!
Paris, SEP 28 (AP/UNB) — Balmain defied the trends in designer Olivier Rousteing's rebellious ode to the 90s, serving up an infectious soundtrack of nostalgia that had Kris Jenner and Eva Longoria tapping their feet.
And the debut of Issey Miyake's new designer tried literally to take flight with a multi-segment musical and gravity-defying dance performance.
Here are some highlights of Friday's spring-summer 2020 ready-to-wear collections in Paris, including Celine.
HIT ME BALMAIN ONE MORE TIME
Spring found Rousteing in a philosophical mood, posing a fundamental question about fashion.
Contemporary houses constantly mine the 60s, 70s and 80s for inspiration. But are styles from the 34-year-old designer's own youth — the 90s and early aughts — "too recent to consider"?
Cue a display in which Rousteing explored that era and, with no apology, "riffing on the distinctive sounds, spirit and styles of my youth."
Britney Spears' "Baby One More Time" blasted on the soundtrack as gentle, Barbie pink flares — as might befit the costumes of the 90s' pop princess— billowed down the runway at Paris' Opera Garnier.
In contrast to Rousteing's normally austere and structured looks, this 90s musing moved him in a softer direction.
Monochrome and graphic prints graced models sporting 90s shades with hair parted at the side. While, polka-dot tuxedo jackets were constructed with a fluidity that nicely captured the heyday of, say, Janet Jackson.
Rousteing reflected on why recycled trends never encroach into a past more recent than 30 years: "It's perhaps due to a feeling that those looks need a bit more of the filter of time that always helps to smooth out past era's fashion bumps."
While the concept of the show was admirable, in its execution there were some unintended fashion bumps owing to the over-exuberance of certain detailing.
On some asymmetrical looks, the weight of voluminous fabric at the midriff tugged down and produced an unpleasant off-kilter effect.
DIAMONDS ARE THE WORLD'S BEST FRIEND
Fashion is one of the world's most polluting industries, but some houses are launching eco-friendly initiatives of note - some more incremental, some more important.
Chloe has started sending out electronic invitations, in favor of gas-guzzling courier.
And another such move was on display at Balmain's show that featured diamonds incorporated into the spring designs and adornments.
The house proudly claims the sparkle in the show's embellishments were "sustainably created diamonds" and were sourced from the world's only carbon-neutral diamond producer Diamond Foundry.
ISSEY MIYAKE'S FLYING START
Acrobatic ballerinas in parachute-like gowns twirled on one foot as they were hoisted up by a gravity-defying cable.
Models on electric skateboards whizzed past front row guests.
And a circle of models danced around holding hands like the figures in Henri Matisse's 1910 masterpiece "The Dance."
But the highlight by new designer Satoshi Kondo, one that had guests reaching for their cameras, came as Hula Hoops with stretch-material dresses inside descended from the ceiling above three standing models.
A dress slid into place over each model's head — triggering gasps from spectators.
It was the cue for the models to dance to funky music as the material in their gowns bounced like an accordion or a jack-in-the-box, which evoked the house's iconic 1994 Flying Saucer dress.
This last segment showed off the house's famed prowess with techno fabrics.
Yet, Kondo's color-rich designs as a whole didn't feel as fresh as the presentation, nor did he really seem to move the house in a new direction.
Still, there were many beautiful ideas in the spring silhouettes.
The first looks, a series of baby powder coats, had layers of material that folded around the body like origami. While, later in the collection, diaphanous brightly-colored anoraks billowed as they filed past like the cape of an Asian warrior at battle.
These specific looks encompassed what the program notes poetically described as the essential "sense of joy that is primitive and instinctive" in wearing clothes.
ISSEY MIYAKE'S NEW DESIGNER
Iconic Japanese designer Issey Miyake may have retired from the design helm of the house he founded in 1970, but he continues to exert great influence over the Franco-Japanese maison.
Miyake stepped in to appoint Kondo, the house said in a statement: "Mr. Miyake... has made a point of giving talented young designers within the company the opportunity to develop their skills."
But it's unclear why the designer since 2011, Yoshiyuki Miyamae, was replaced. Perhaps it was due to the lukewarm reception of his collections in recent years that some critics felt had lost their edginess.
In a curt explainer, the house said: "Regarding the change, it was a natural decision that came after the last show."
CELINE HAS CHANGED
Smoldering red column structures set the stage for Hedi Slimane's re-branded vision of Celine in an annex near the gilded Invalides.
It was the rebellious designer's third Celine women's collection to date, in which he continued in his clean break-away from its traditional designs.
Spring continued where fall left off — somewhere in the 70s.
Faded denim flares were a key theme in the pared-down designs that featured retro center partings, silk headscarves in leopard print, boho floral gowns and ruffled tan leather boots.
High necks defined the aesthetic of silk shirts that were accessorized by large fedora hats with razor sharp brims.
Smolder it didn't, but the former Saint Laurent designer served up a saleable collection, in which he put his youth-culture-infused stamp on the 74-year-old house.
New York, Sept 12 (AP/UNB) — Naeem Khan brought it home with his new spring-summer 2020 collection, launching his runway show in the chic lobby and courtyard of his New York City apartment building.
The longtime designer set up shop Tuesday on the ground floor of the ultramodern Zaha Hadid Building on Manhattan's west side. Lucite chairs lined the entryway and outside space of the building — a modern metallic and glass structure with serpentine lines and rounded balconies towering over a courtyard. Hadid, who was a close friend of Khan's, designed the building before her death in 2016.
Khan said the space Hadid created inspired the collection, calling it salon-like and intimate.
"Lots of separates, lots of coats, jackets, of course glamour, because I'm known for that, but it's like fluid, it's light, it's airy. The pajamas are so chic. It's like, tunics mixed with pants. Really glamour at its most relaxed form," Khan told The Associated Press at the show.
A parade of models strutting in impossibly high stiletto heels entered into the building's courtyard, with the evening breeze helping to increase the dramatic effect of the loose, flowing designs. Most wore slicked back updo's with intricate fishtail buns, accentuated by huge gold hoop earrings with bejeweled parrots and seahorses.
The first several looks were animal print pajama pantsuits, dresses and jumpsuits with matching thin billowing jackets. While some prints were in the fabric, many were embellished with sequins, creating glittering texture.
Vibrant colors were also part of the collection and seen in silk pajamas with giant flowers. One knockout look was a bright, fuchsia satin halter sheath that poured down to the floor, with a stream of fabric down the back. Several designs honored Khan's Indian heritage, including a pink Sari-inspired dress with a dramatic train of ombre' effects of pink and orange chiffon, and a long green tunic dress with a decorative panel of beading.
There were glitzy wide-legged pants with matching tunics covered in monochromatic sequins of black, bright yellow and aquamarine. A metallic gold three-tiered backless dress shimmered, capturing the evening light as the sun set.
Khan has been in the fashion industry for 30 years and has dressed many A-list celebrities. He said glamour has changed and young people want to look beautiful but less "stuffy" so he is changing with the time.
Celebrities seated in the front row included Ryan Seacrest, reality star Kaitlynn Carter and Miss Universe Catriona Gray. Seacrest said he always tries to make time for Khan's shows and he may have had extra incentive to attend.
"Amazing, stunning, glitz, glamour...I'm really in awe of what he did. And one of the models especially was incredible, my dear friend," Seacrest said with a smile, referring to model Shayna Taylor, who walked in the show and whom he has dated in the past.
Gray said the Hadid building added to the mood.
"I loved the drama of this venue and paired with the music, it was operatic and there was a tribal feeling there also...there were sequins, there was chiffon, it was very feminine and romantic," Gray said.
Dhaka, Sept 3 ( UNB) – A five- week long Jamdani festival will begin at Bengal Shilpalay in the city’s Dhanmondi on Friday.
Bengal Foundation organised the festival in association with World Crafts Council.
A press conference on the festival was held at Bengal Boi in the city on Tuesday.
Addressing the press conference, President of the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh Rafiqul Islam said it took two years for the preparation of the festival.
A seminar titled "Jamdani: Past, Present and Future " will be held on September 7 at Women Voluntary Association ( WVA) in the city's Dhanmondhi area, the organiser said.
The festival will be inaugurated by Education Minister Dr Dipu Moni while
State minister for Cultural Affairs K M Khalid, Mayor of Narayanganj Selina Hayat Ivy and the President of the World Crafts Council Asia-Pacific Region Dr Ghada Hijjawi Qaddumi will be present on the occasion as special guests.
President of the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh Rafiqul Islam will chair the inaugural ceremony.
The Master Craft Persons award ceremony will also be held on the same day to honour the most efficient master weaver and their apprentices for their skills and contributions to the community.
Four short films onthe design and weaving process of Jamdani and the life of weavers will be screened as part of programme.
The organisers said that they have taken all out efforts with the support of the Cultural Affairs Ministry and local administration of Sonargaon to make Sonargaon as the world Craft City.
The exhibition is open to all every day, except on Sundays, from 12 pm to 8 pm until October 12
Luva Nahid Choudhury, one of the trustees of Bengal Foundation, representatives of executive partners of the festival Aarong, Aranya, Kumudini and Tangail Sharee Kutir were also present.