In Germany, no vegetable is as passionately adored as white asparagus. People can spend hours debating the best way to serve it—whether with melted butter or Hollandaise sauce, paired with smoked ham or schnitzel, or accompanied by whole boiled potatoes or sliced and fried potatoes with bacon and onions. There's even discussion about whether to eat the shoots with your fingers or a fork and knife, though tradition permits using fingers, as long as they are cleaned in a warm water bowl.
One thing Germans unanimously agree on is that green asparagus pales in comparison to its white counterpart, which holds a special place in their hearts.
Sven Sperling, 54, shared his thoughts while enjoying his first plate of the season at the Jakobs-Hof asparagus restaurant in Beelitz, just outside Berlin. He described white asparagus as more delicate in taste, something truly unique that can't be compared to green asparagus.
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Beelitz, located 50 kilometers southwest of Berlin, is renowned for its asparagus fields. The region's farmers, who refer to the vegetable as "white gold," enjoy a lucrative harvest. Early in the season, white asparagus can cost up to 20 euros per kilogram, but by June, the price decreases to around 10 euros per kilogram. Despite the price drop, Spargel, as it’s known in German, maintains its luxurious reputation throughout the season.
For Germans, white asparagus represents much more than a mere dish—it's a cultural tradition. Jürgen Jakobs, who operates the Jakobs-Hof restaurant and grows asparagus on 25 hectares of land, emphasized that eating asparagus is a celebration, often shared with family and friends on holidays like Easter, Mother's Day, and Whitsun.
The history of white asparagus dates back to ancient Rome, where it was regarded as an aphrodisiac and brought to Central Europe. It was initially cultivated in monastery gardens, reserved for the nobility during the Middle Ages. By the late 19th century, asparagus cultivation expanded, making it more widely available, though it retains an air of exclusivity.
Jakobs explained that white asparagus thrives in sandy soil, which imparts its signature sweet, nutty flavor. The vegetable grows underground, covered by plastic tarps to protect it from sunlight, which, if it touches the shoots, causes them to turn violet, green, and develop a more bitter taste.
Germans are the global leaders in consuming white asparagus, with each person eating about three pounds annually. In total, Germany's harvest reached 105,000 metric tons last year. Though Germans don't export their white asparagus, they import it from countries like Spain and Italy, where it's grown primarily for export. Imported asparagus, however, is typically less flavorful than locally grown varieties.
Traditionally, white asparagus is steamed with sugar and salt and must be peeled before cooking. In the past, the peeling process was a communal activity, with women gathering to peel large quantities of asparagus while chatting. Today, some premium grocery stores sell pre-peeled asparagus to save time, but nothing compares to the authentic experience of peeling and preparing it at home, a tradition that many, like Sperling, still cherish for its nostalgic and family-centered charm.