Jiro Ono, the globally acclaimed sushi master who held three Michelin stars for more than a decade and became the world’s oldest chef to do so, has served royalty, world leaders and inspired an award-winning documentary. Yet even at 100, he is not prepared to fully step away from his craft.
“I want to continue for another five years,” Ono said last month, as he received a congratulatory certificate and gift ahead of his milestone birthday on Japan’s “Respect for the Aged Day.”
When asked about the secret to his longevity, he answered simply, “Working.” Tokyo Gov. Yuriko Koike, who visited to offer congratulations, heard Ono admit he no longer comes to the restaurant daily, “but even at 100, I try to work if possible. The best medicine is work.”
Ono, founder of the famed Sukiyabashi Jiro — a 10-seat sushi bar tucked in a basement in Tokyo’s Ginza district — celebrated his 100th birthday on Monday. He joins the ranks of nearly 100,000 centenarians in one of the world’s fastest-aging nations.
Born in Hamamatsu in 1925, Ono began his culinary training at age 7 in a local inn restaurant, moved to Tokyo, and became a sushi chef at 25. He opened Sukiyabashi Jiro in 1965 and has spent decades pursuing absolute excellence.
“I still haven’t achieved perfection,” he said in the 2012 documentary, “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” “I will keep climbing toward the summit, but no one knows where the summit is.”
Film director David Gelb described Ono as both a master and a father figure to those around him. Initially intimidated by his legendary standing, Gelb was quickly won over by Ono’s humor and warmth. He recalled shooting footage of an octopus being massaged for an hour and Ono joking that he worried the movie might become unbearably boring.
Ono’s devotion to regular customers is unwavering. Even when Japan’s government requested a table for former U.S. President Barack Obama and then-Prime Minister Shinzo Abe in 2014, he declined at first because every seat was booked. The visit was rescheduled later that evening. Ono remembers Obama enjoying the sushi “and I was happy.” His son and head chef Yoshikazu said Obama smiled and winked as he tasted medium fatty tuna.
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Sukiyabashi Jiro earned three Michelin stars in 2007 and retained them until 2019, when Ono was recognized by Guinness World Records as the oldest three-star head chef at 93 years and 128 days. The restaurant was later dropped from the guide after limiting reservations to regulars or those booked through top hotels.
In recent years, Ono prepares sushi only for select guests as his hands have grown less steady. But his ambition remains strong. After hearing news of Japan’s oldest man passing away at 113, Ono remarked that 13 more years sounded achievable. “I will aim for 114,” he said.
“I value my life so that I can continue working for a long time,” he added. He avoids alcohol, walks regularly and maintains a healthy diet. Asked about his favorite sushi, he instantly named three classics: tuna, gizzard shad and saltwater eel.
Gelb said Ono’s enduring passion is inspirational. “It’s amazing that this tradition continues and he’s still going strong at 100,” he said, delivering birthday wishes in Japanese.
Source: AP