Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean made a striking return to the Milan runway on Saturday after a three-year hiatus, showcasing a collection crafted with Bhutanese artisans and appealing for stronger political support to preserve the world’s dwindling artisan class.

“I said I would come back when I had something to say,” Jean told reporters backstage.

Appeal for artisans

Jean, known for blending Italian tailoring with textiles and artistry from global artisans, stressed that Italian craftsmanship is at risk as fewer young people are entering the trade. She urged lawmakers to extend the same fiscal benefits recently granted to artworks to fine craftsmanship.

Such support, Jean said, would allow consumers to pay less value-added tax on pieces that can take up to a year to complete—like Bhutan’s traditional ankle-length kira dress, which she wore on the runway—while ensuring artisans receive fair pay.

“We cannot pay them less because artisans are already underpaid,” Jean said backstage. “Otherwise, this craftsmanship will survive only in museums. If we don’t wear it, it becomes meaningless.”

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Bhutanese craftsmanship on display

The collection included handwoven tego jackets over silk printed dresses, skirts embroidered from nettle fiber, embroidered skirts paired with rugby shirts, and silk dresses with beaded panels depicting village scenes. Bhutanese artisans who collaborated with Jean were present in the front row, dressed in traditional attire.

Tribute to Armani

Jean, who debuted in Milan at the Armani Theater in 2013 as a guest of Giorgio Armani, paid tribute to the late designer by unfurling a T-shirt from her premiere that read: “Grazie, Mr. Armani,” signed “Stella.”

“We cannot be here without paying tribute to someone to whom Italian fashion owes so much,” she said. “Italian fashion became the most important in the world, thanks to this gentleman.”

Source: Agency