British fashion designer Stella McCartney used her Paris Fashion Week show Wednesday to criticize the fishing industry and draw attention to the impact of seafood production on marine life.
The show marked 25 years of McCartney's fashion label, which has never used leather, fur or feathers. It was held in the rain-soaked gardens of the British ambassador's residence, with actress and singer Jennifer Lopez among those watching from the front row.
McCartney said the language people use to describe marine animals changes depending on whether they are being admired or eaten.
“Who makes that decision?” she asked backstage, referring to the use of terms such as “sea life” and “seafood.”
She was more direct when discussing the fishing industry.
“It's war. We're at war with the oceans,” she said.
McCartney said fishing nets can bring up dolphins and octopuses along with fish, with much of the unwanted catch thrown back into the sea dead.
Models walked through the gardens to PJ Harvey's song “Down by the Water.” Juliette Binoche sat near Lopez, while Karlie Kloss and Miranda Kerr were among the models on the runway.
Sea-inspired designs
The collection reflected the theme through its colors and flowing designs.
The palette included seafoam, sage, coral, blush and chocolate. The tailoring, influenced by Savile Row designer Edward Sexton, was relaxed and designed to move like water.
Oversized blazers featured drawstrings inspired by rain jackets, while peplums returned in rounded shapes around the hips.
Sheer layers revealed bandeaus and short shorts as part of the growing trend of wearing underwear as outerwear.
McCartney also brought her signature sportswear style into the collection, pairing fitted leggings with boxy technical jackets. T-shirts featured dolphins appearing to leap through the air.
Kloss wore a minidress decorated with small waves across one shoulder, while Kerr appeared in a seafoam-colored gown tied at the waist.
Evening gowns wrapped around the body before falling in long, straight shapes inspired by designer Madame Grès. Ruffles at the hems suggested breaking waves.
“It's really, really important to want to wear the clothes,” McCartney said. “For me, that's the main thing.”
Focus on sustainable materials
The fashion house described the ready-to-wear collection as “100% responsible,” using recycled cotton denim, organic cotton and silk.
It also used a black pigment made from algae instead of oil-based materials.
McCartney said the certified wool used by the brand can be traced back to the farms where it is produced. Since 2026, the company has also used Brewed Protein, a wool alternative made through fermentation by Japanese biotechnology company Spiber.
A week before the show, McCartney co-founded the Climate Pledge Fashion Coalition with Amazon and forest conservation group Canopy.
The initiative brings together orders from more than 60 companies in an effort to help sustainable materials reach large-scale production.
McCartney bought back LVMH's minority stake in her fashion label last year but continues to advise LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault on sustainability issues.
“I'm advising him on so many things in sustainability,” she said.
McCartney ended the show wearing jeans, a white T-shirt and a loose blazer before taking her bow and leaving the runway.
Backstage, when questions shifted from ocean conservation to fashion, she asked: “You mean you want to talk about the clothes?”
After 25 years, the clothes remain central to her message.