Paris Couture Week
Balenciaga debut, bold designs and technology define Paris couture week
Paris Haute Couture Week ended on Thursday after four days of dramatic fashion shows that highlighted three major themes — the human body, fantasy and technology — as designers unveiled creations blending traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation.
One of the week's biggest highlights was designer Pierpaolo Piccioli's first haute couture collection for Balenciaga, presented on Wednesday before celebrities including Demi Moore, Cynthia Erivo and Gigi Hadid.
Piccioli's collection featured oversized gowns, hooded feather designs and a dramatic finale with Hadid wearing a creation covered in rooster feathers. He received a standing ovation after appearing on the runway with his entire atelier dressed in white coats.
The show marked Balenciaga's biggest haute couture presentation since the fashion house revived its couture line in 2020.
Around 30 fashion houses, including five making their couture debut, explored different ways of presenting the human form. Some designs revealed the body, while others hid or reshaped it with dramatic silhouettes and sculptural garments.
At Armani Privé, designer Silvana Armani presented a collection titled "Boudoir" that focused on elegance rather than revealing clothing. The show featured embroidered garments, tailored jackets and subtle details that balanced modesty with style.
Oscar-winning actress Cate Blanchett attended the show alongside Rosamund Pike and **Anna Wintour>.
At Schiaparelli, designer Daniel Roseberry experimented with body-inspired creations, including sculpted corsets, silicone details and inflatable elements, giving the collection a futuristic appearance.
Piccioli at Balenciaga and Dutch designer Iris van Herpen took a different approach by using oversized shapes and delicate handcrafted materials that almost completely concealed the human figure.
Fantasy was another major theme throughout the week, with designers presenting collections inspired by fairy tales, classic Hollywood and nature against the backdrop of a summer heat wave and global uncertainty.
Elie Saab showcased glamorous evening wear inspired by Truman Capote's famous 1966 Black and White Ball and old Hollywood stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
Zuhair Murad presented richly decorated designs inspired by gardens, flowers and butterflies, while Stéphane Rolland paid tribute to late singer Dalida with an almost entirely white collection.
At Chanel, new designer Matthieu Blazy transformed the Grand Palais into a fairy-tale setting with giant beanstalks, pea-pod-shaped heels and golden eggs. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson presented sculptural designs inspired by American artist Lynda Benglis.
Technology also played a central role during the week as designers explored new materials while emphasising the value of hand craftsmanship.
Schiaparelli used unusual handmade materials including baked fish scales, painted surfaces and hand-shaped silicone.
Van Herpen experimented with science by exposing one dress to a particle accelerator before the show. The garment was intended to produce electrical effects on the runway, although the experiment affected the fabric before the presentation.
Balenciaga also introduced garments made with laboratory-grown Amsilk silk, which the fashion house says is stronger than steel.
Despite the growing use of technology, designers across Paris couture week stressed that traditional handcraft remains at the heart of haute couture, combining innovation with the artistry that defines the world's most exclusive fashion collections.
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